Problems from the Chicago Nationals: Answers

Problems from the Chicago nationals...not too many decent bidding problems...lots of play and defense problems. Most are trick one decisions, so it shouldn't take forever to answer these.

Today's Panelists: Andy Lewis, Bob Thomson, Curt Hastings, Dan Molochko, Ed Davis, Mike Shuster, Rolf Kühn, Walter Hamilton, Web Ewell, Barry Rigal, and Joel Wooldridge. Hmmmm...A, B, C, D, E...where's Fred, George, ...?

IMP Pairs, none vul

6543
A842
---
KQJ93

KQJ1098
Q109
Q96
4

LHO CHO RHO You

1 Pass 1 2

Pass 4 Pass Pass

Dbl All Pass

Opening lead is the 7. Over to you.

BOB (QUOTED), ANDY, CURT, DAN, ED, JOEL, BARRY
I rise Ace at trick one, judging that 3145 is more likely than 2245 or 3244. Whatever LHO has, his double is pretty silly at IMP Pairs.
MIKE (WHO KNEW THE HAND)
This is a guess. RHO has the DK and HKJ and LHO has three aces, two spades and one or two hearts. The double makes more sense with a stiff, but with six clubs and four diamonds, he might not have passed at his second opportunity. I think he is 2245 and RHO is therefore 1462... so I should duck at trick one.
ROLF
I guess I duck.
WALTER (AND WEB SIMILARLY)
Hmm, what happened to the diamond suit? I assume LHO has 4. If RHO is 1561 or 0562 the oponents are making 5 or 6. If RHO is 4-6 in the reds they make only 4. Given the lead of the 7 which is high enough to be a doubleton, I duck. Before playing I would need to know if the oponents bid 1 with 4 and 6. If they don't I play the A.
JEFF AT THE TABLE
Rise.
VOTES
7 rise, 4 duck
WINNING ACTION
duck. LHO was 2245 and RHO 1462.
JEFF UPON REFLECTION
Diamonds are pretty clearly 4-6, so the question is, "is LHO 3145 or 2146, or 2245?" I'd guess one of the former; a player who doubles out of the blue is usually leading a stiff. But, consider RHO's problem. With 1561 or 0562, would he really pass 4x? Nah. He's 4-6 in the reds, so it's right to duck the first trick. I blew it at the table, but upon reflection, I think it's pretty clear to duck.
IMP Pairs, unfavorable

xx
AKxx
AKxxx
Qx

A87xx
Jxxx
Qxx
x

LHO opens 3 and all pass. Partner leads the K; you encourage. He continues with the A and K, all following. To trick four, he continues the Q. Over to you.
This one has an unequivocal answer. If partner had three spades, he'd've cashed the Q before the two trumps, forcing you to duck and win the third round of spades with the Ace. He didn't, so he hasn't. He must have only two spades, so overtake and give him his ruff.
Ed points out that while this is obvious to partner when he has a doubleton, it might not be so clear to him when he has KQx. Since few opponents will preempt with four spades and a crappy suit, one must weigh one's trust of partner against one's mistrust of the opponents. I cast my vote to trust partner. At least I get to win the post-mortem, and as we all know, I'd rather get it right than win.
Joel makes another point: "The correct theoretical answer to this must be to overtake A, and give partner his spade ruff. If pard held KQx, he should have led low (even at the cost of an undertrick)."
That'd be a heck of a nice partner. I won't hold my breath.
Matchpoints, none vul.
You deal yourself
--- AJ8432 --- QJ87432
What action do you take?

ANDY
Pass, and hope to show both my suits later.
BARRY
Pass and await developments. There will be some!
BOB
1
CURT
Pass. When I have this hand, I keep bidding until I become declarer (it will not go all out...). Therefore, if I open the bidding, and a lot of spimonds are bid by the three opponents at the table (CHO could easily be just that if he keeps bidding spades), I won't be able to bid my suits vigorously enough to convey my length without getting raised above whatever I can make.
DAN
1. 14 points [K&R says 14.35. --Jeff] is a mandatory opening. What I want is for partner to prefer clubs with equal length, so I start with 1.
ED
Pass. I feel more comfortable describing this hand after initially limiting its high card strength. This will be important if partner has a good but non-fitting hand. Partner will get a better picture of my hand if I pass originally and then cue bid a couple of times than if I open the bidding. I will also be able to respect my partner's final double if I begin with a pass.
JOEL
Pass, and catch-up later.
MIKE
Can't pass, since I use so many fit showing bids in competitive auctions. Isn't 1 canape obvious? [No. --Jeff]
ROLF
1 - maybe I have the chance to bid on the 5 level...
WALTER
1
WEB
4
JEFF AT THE TABLE
1
VOTES

Pass 5

1 4

1 2

4 1

WINNING ACTION
hard to say. They are cold for 6NT or 6. A slow start suggesting high-card strength might keep them out of slam, since they are each balanced. It did, in fact. I opened 1 and "reversed" into hearts when partner responded 1 on his 7222 2-count. I saved over 3NT (duh) into 4 and they subsided into 5, which I knew to pass, since it was pretty clear that they were making 3NT. 5 is a good save against 5, but 6 isn't.
MPs, unfavorable, you hold
KQ532 K8 AKQ63 8

CHO RHO You LHO

Pass Pass 1 Pass

Pass 2 2 2

2 3 ?

ANDY
Pass, scared by the vulnerability.
BARRY
3. I seem to have a little extra and that seems the most clear-cut move in the face of my partner's free bid. I guess just bidding 3 is a reasonable alternative, but I think I have a little game interest... well maybe it is an overbid but I play them well.
BOB
3. Now that the heart King is devalued, you've justified your decision not to bid 3 on the previous round.
CURT
3 seems right on values and shape.
DAN
3. Since this hand is the answer to the question, "What's a perfect hand for bidding 3 on the previous round?", partner won't play me for it now. I want partner to bid 2 in this situation on cheese, so I'll take my plus.
ED
I need partner to have some help in spades and possibly hearts. Game is not likely but I can call attention to the right suits by bidding 3 and then leave it up to partner.
JOEL
3...maybe partner will read this as a help suit game try, as I'm intending it. Or, maybe partner will jump to game because he has an ace and decided not to respond the first time
MIKE
I know this hand too. Partner has the right smattering of queens and jacks to make 4 decent (and cold on the lie of the cards). After partner has free-bid 2, you should bid 4. At my table, partner merely preferred spades non-competitively and we stopped in 3. Maybe I should have bid three diamonds.
ROLF
3 should still be safe and give partner the opportunity to bid game.
WALTER
3
WEB
pass. -110 might actually be worth some match points.
JEFF AT THE TABLE
3
VOTES

3 5

3 2

Pass 2

3 2

4 1

WINNING ACTION
any game try. Partner has Jxx Qxx 10xxx Qxx.
JEFF UPON REFLECTION
At the table, I realized immediately that I'd made an error. The game try should be 3 so that partner can upvalue the Q irrespective of his diamond holding. It won't matter all that often; if he had the same hand without the Q, he might well bid 3, after which you can bid 4. The advantage of 3 is that partner will like J10x Qxx 10xx xxxx, which offers reasonable play for game.
As to those who think that 3 is right on the previous round, why? What are your chances at a diamond game? I'd guess zero, since partner doesn't have an ace. If he doesn't correct diamonds to spades, 2 is plenty. If he does, you can bid again. So, I see no point in bidding 3. Moreover, bidding slowly got us into a good position, as partner was able to show some values in the actual auction.
MPs, unfavorable

985
Q854
Q63
J97

K4
A3
874
AKQ654

You LHO CHO RHO

1 Dbl Pass 1

1NT Pass Pass 2

2NT Pass 3NT All Pass

Do you approve of the bidding?

BARRY
I would not have thought of 2NT. I do not think it is terrible but I would have passed.
BOB
I rather admire the 2NT bid, but the 3NT bid is a mistake. If both red queens were a red king it would be a better bid. You can practically write down partner's hand and you don't have a ninth trick for him. [Thanks! --Jeff]
CURT
Dummy cannot take a joke, obviously.
Declarer's bidding is fine. This is matchpoints and the opponents are Nonvuln.
DAN
Almost. I like 1 followed by 1NT, but I think 3 is better (and clearer) than 2NT. Partner wasn't on the same wavelength but we're in a good spot; if I can get the distribution right I'll make this.
JOEL
I don't approve of the bidding. Dummy needed help in spades or a king to bid again.
MIKE
3NT is an overbid. Because of your clubs, you know partner's are coming in. That doesn't mean you are taking 9 tricks. It means you are taking the same eight tricks partner was hoping for when he bid 2NT. I know this hand, too... and amazingly my partner bid 3???? over 2NT. Now that was psychotic...

T1: K-3-2-4
T2: 9-Q-10-8
T3: 7-2-A-3
T4: 4-8-J-10
Over to you.

EVERYONE, INCLUDING JEFF AT THE TABLE
run the clubs, trying for the stripsqueeze vs. Axx Kxxx AKJx xx.
ROLF
A small spade is probably the best chance to make the contract as LHO is unlikely to hold both K and A. Anyway I would like to make 8 tricks for sure, as this seems to be a good result compared to 2 or 3. So I'll take my Club tricks and decide in the end if I go for the ninth or not.
CURT ADDS
-100 might be pretty good, whereas down a few rates to be a disaster. [It wasn't; it was. --Jeff]
WINNING ACTION
RHO has the A, so you need to lead a spade to the king right now.
JEFF UPON REFLECTION
Obviously, there are two lines: 1) the stripsqueeze, and 2) the spade finesse. Why didn't LHO lead or shift to a spade? It really looks like she has the A. But what's RHO bidding on? QJxxx and out? Seems a little dubious. Since LHO has erred, a spade lead or shift beats the contract, I had to guess how and why she erred. Upon further reflection, one possible reason was that she was afraid of leading into my AQx, knowing that dummy was short of entries. If she had a clue, however, she'd know that I'd then have nine tricks on her imagined layout. Anyway, that gives her Jxx KJxx AKJx xx, a reasonable takeout double. Which hand does she have? I didn't know then, and I don't know now.
MPs, none vul, you hold
K84 AKQ2 AQ532 3

CHO RHO You LHO

1 1 Dbl? 4

Pass Pass ?

Do you agree with the negative double?

ANDY
I agree with the negative double.
BARRY
No. I bid 2 not expecting this raise in .
BOB
My style is to bid 2 with this, but I don't mind a double.
CURT
I would have started with 2, to ensure that I communicated my values. In this auction, partner could pass with a lot of hands with decent trick-taking potential, considering the typical dogs I usually have for negative doubles at nv/nv matchpoints that are looking to compete at low levels.
DAN
No, I can't imagine why one should not start with 2.
JOEL
I would have bid 2 on the previous round, then reversed into hearts.
MIKE
The negative double is a wretched, non-descriptive call. It fails at describing either your strength or your distribution and leaves you poorly placed in most follow up auction (since you will never be able to bid diamonds forcing after making a negative double).
ROLF
Seems to be the normal bid.
WALTER
No, 2 seems normal.
WEB
This hand is too good for a negative double. I would start with 2, and bid hearts at my next turn.
JEFF
At the table, I started with the double. I expected that'd be the best way to get information from partner and perhaps get hearts played from his side to avoid a ruff. 2 is OK, but getting hearts into the picture early seems more important. Since my hand is good enough to force to slam, I don't see why I won't be able to force in diamonds later should I need to; I might have to bid 3 and follow it up with 4, or I might just be able to jump to 4 (one of those sequences must be forcing) but that doesn't bother me. Hmmm... come to think of it:

CHO RHO You LHO

1 1 Dbl 2

Pass Pass 3 Pass

4 Pass 4

CHO RHO You LHO

1 1 Dbl 2

Pass Pass 4

Which of these 4 bids is forcing? The first one sounds as if we've probed for 3NT, found no stopper, and are groping for a playable strain. If, then, it's not forcing, the second had better be. Does anyone know? For what it's worth, if they jump to 3, getting a forcing heart bid in after starting with 2 isn't so easy:

CHO RHO You LHO

1 1 2 3

Pass Pass ?

Blech. Then again, we are not all that fond of our current situation, either.
VOTES
Yes: 2, No: 8

What now?

ANDY
I double again. I might be missing a diamond slam, but I would have similar worries about missing hearts if I had bid diamonds last time around.
BARRY
Double. What else?
BOB
I make a positive double. Even if we have a slam, +800 is a good score and we might get +1100. Besides, there's no guarantee that we are going to bid the right slam at this point.
CURT
I would like to be scientific but I don't think I can anymore. 6 seems most likely to get partner to raise to grands that have play while avoiding those that don't.
DAN
Dbl. SHOW ME THE MONEY!
JOEL
with the position I am in, I consider it way too likely that I'm making 6, so I'll bid 5nt, choice of slams, and correct clubs to diamonds...hopefully partner will realize this can't be based on a 5th heart, or I would have bid 2 on the round previous.
MIKE
Double. If everyone passes, it may be important for partner to lead the first round of trumps, so don't lead a low one... start with the K (leading A from AK) to try to get attitude about the jack. On the actual hand, it is trivial to work out to underlead in diamonds at trick two to get the critical trump played from the right side.
ROLF
Double. Slam might be cold, but if partner does not bid over double we are probably in the right contract.
WALTER
4NT
WEB
I'm endplayed into doubling again.
CONSENSUS
double
WINNING ACTION
double. They go for 1100 when partner suprisingly shows up with a trump. If you don't defend, 6NT, 6, or 6 all make, 6 a little luckily. Double seems clear; second choice is probably 5NT, intending to correct 6 to 6. That all assumed that partner would sit. He won't. He has x 109xx K10 AKQ109x. If you started with a negative double, he'll probably pull to 5. You can bid 6 with some confidence and 6NT with somewhat less confidence but more matchpoints. If you started with 2, partner will pull to 5. I do not envy your position now. Note that if partner's red lengths were reversed, after the negative double, partner could pull to 4NT. Perhaps that double isn't quite so wretched, huh?
Assuming one chooses not to double, what's the difference between 6 and 5NT? (And 5?) I think 6 should show a good six-bagger, with 5NT only showing something like what we have. 5 promises first-round spade control. I think. So did partner; I tried 6 and he chose not to correct. Upon reflection, double is best, but then bidding 6NT over the pull seems best. At least at matchpoints, and assuming that partner didn't pull to hearts. (1460 will beat 1440 when partner is void in spades.)
MPs, favorable, you hold
AKQ95 AQ852 --- AJ9
Partner opens 1.
What's your plan?

ANDY
Strong jump shift in hearts. I won't stop short of 6, and will bid 7 if partner has the kings of clubs and hearts. I don't really want to tell partner about my diamond void, since this will only discourage him.
BARRY
2. Partner has psyched, but oppo may reopen is my first bet. If he bids again I bid 7. (Yes this is probably illegal but 2 is the lowest ethical bid - I can explain it to the C and E by saying i was going to ask for the K later on...) [Barry is joking, but of course bidding 2 is legal. In fact playing partner to have psyched is legal, provided you are doing it using only authorized information, which is the case here. --Jeff]
BOB
Four NT then five NT. I'll take a shot at 7NT if partner leaps to seven or has three kings.
CURT
My plan is to bid 2 (gf, I hope), raise spades, and get into a cuebidding sequence. I want to locate the K and then the A and a minor suit kings is 7NT.
DAN
My original plan was to futz around for a while and bid an unsound 7. My new plan is to bid 2, then bid minimum clubs, then bid 6 (I'm hoping for 1-2-2NT-3-3NT-6). Partner will bid the grand with the round Kings, don't you think?
JOEL
I'll bid 2, then raise spades. Next I'll cue bid clubs. Hopefully I'll get a better idea of what shape/highcards partner's looking at late in the auction, since NT is still a possibility.
MIKE
Two choices... Jac 2NT (hoping to find out about a stiff minor) or 2. I think starting with 2 is best... as this way you can find out for sure if partner's hearts are Kxx or Kx.... that way you will be best placed to make the MP decision between 7 and 7NT.
ROLF
2 - my 1st idea is to make trumps in order to explore if partner holds K or not.
WALTER
If I can make a strong Jump shift and show a diamond void I do that. If partner supports hearts over the JS I'll bid 5N then 7 if the K is shown. If partner doesn't support I'll show the void in diamonds with spade support. If playing Bergen, I bid 2 and hope to be raised so I can bid 5N next. If not I bid 3 next and drag partner to 6 unless partner shows the K.
WEB
(Glare across the table at Shuster for psyching... ) This is really a methods question. In my methods, I'd start with 2NT game forcing spade raise and see what partner had to say (especially because a splinter bid must be a singleton and not a void.)
JEFF AT THE TABLE
wasn't there. I held partner's hand: J10xxx Kxx AKxx K. (Not a psych, sorry.)
WINNING ACTION
2. That lets you get to 7NT. 7 was a tad above average. 7NT was a near top.
JEFF UPON REFLECTION
I like 2. That will tell you right away if 7NT is in the picture. I think it's pretty unlikely that we'll stop below 7 anyway, so we need to focus on the real decision.
MPs, unfavorable, you hold
AJ104 92 K643 K63
2-2; 2NT (23-24)-?
ANDY
Stayman. I am interested in finding a spade fit, but if we have a diamond fit I would rather be in 6N at matchpoints.
BARRY
5NT - pick a slam is possible converting 6 to 6. But Stayman and 4 over 3 and 6NT over everything else also makes sense. I'm playing 6 or 6NT. [Most play 5NT as forcing to 6NT but inviting 7NT, no? --Jeff]
BOB
3. It's kind of a guess whether to Stayman of not, but I like my chances of making a thirteenth trick in spades enough to give up the extra ten points for notrump.
CURT
6NT. I think this is a corollary to the rule that, at MPs with 2 balanced hands, a 4-4 major suit fit, and 29+ HCP with no slam, you generally are best to play NT.
DAN
3. A perfect subminimum makes 7 very good. Why shouldn't I try to get there? I'll try to get into a cue-bidding sequence to show my Kings.
ED
Relay systems have a huge edge over Standard American bidding in exploring for a grand slam opposite a strong balanced hand. Here the best I can do is Stayman. If partner shows spades, I can confirm a spade fit via a 4 cue bid. If partner denies spades, I can bid 5N and then suggest a 7 over partner's 6 bid by bidding 6.
JOEL
I don't think anyone plays this, but maybe people should...I'll bid 4, which is either 4-3-3-3 quantitative or a slam forcing bid...anyhow, if pard bids 4nt over it, I'll bid 5, if pard bids 5 of a minor, I'll bid 5 (hopefully confirming the slam force). Lacking that tool, I'll bid 3, and if partner bids 3, I'll bid 5nt (choice of slams), if pard bids 6, I'll raise. If partner responds 3, I'll bid RKC, and if partner bids 3, I'll satisfy myself with 6nt.
[I play something better. I play 4 nearly forces to slam; partner bids 4NT with a 4333 minimum, but otherwise bids a 4-card suit he'd be willing to play at the 5-level or a 5-carder at the 6-level. As far as I know, it was independently developed by Eddie Kantar and Danny Kleinman and probably some others. --Jeff]
MIKE
4, K-K slam force. I believe at the table I bid stayman, followed by 6 over the 3 response, worried about missing 7, but fairly confident that this hand would play a trick better in spades than in NT. Bidding 6NT here would be too unilateral, regardless of the form of scoring (you may not get to 7 when it is right, but 6+1 still scores more than 6NT making).
ROLF
6NT - this is very likely to be the normal contract and I will not give the opponents any information for the defense.
WALTER
6NT
WEB
6NT. Hope that partner can win some matchpoints for +1470. I don't think I can get enough information to bid 7 when it's right.
JEFF AT THE TABLE
6NT
VOTES

6NT 4

3 4

4 2

5NT 1

WINNING ACTION
Stayman and get to 6. Partner has KQ97 AK3 AQ8 AJ5.
JEFF UPON REFLECTION
The 4 gadget would have been perfect. We want to play spades if partner likes his hand for suit play. He's 4333, but has good chances to obtain a useful ruff, so I think he'd cooperate and we'd end up in 6.
In 6NT, we have a play problem. We got the lead of the Q (I thought it was a small one, but just checked the hand records). I see three sets of lines:
1. duck a heart and play for a diamond-club squeeze.
2. check diamonds. If they are 3-3, take the club hook for 7 and a win. If RHO has four diamonds, try ducking a heart to LHO and then playing for a showup squeeze. If LHO has four diamonds, try for a stripsqueeze against him assuming he has the Q. You'll need to guess his shape.
3. Figure the field is going to be split between 6NT and 6 and take your 25% board by playing it straight up, taking the club finesse and checking diamonds.
It's not clear at all which of these lines is best. I think (1) is the worst. It's about 14% to win the board; that's worse than hoping for 3-3 diamonds and the club onside, in which case you'll be +1470 for a win (more or less line 3). Line 2 is harder to figure; it might depend on misdefense or guesswork. I'd guess that it has a better chance than any other to outscore those in 6S, but it often pays off to those in 6NT who play it straight up.
In practice, diamonds were 4-2 off and the club hook was on, so if one tries (1), one goes down. If one tries (2) or (3), one gets +1440, losing to the 1460s out there. I think -100 was a 1+, +1440 was a 14, and +1460 was a 38 or so (on a 51 top).
MPs, favorable
A92 J64 743 K1084

LHO CHO RHO You

Pass 1 2 Pass

Pass Dbl Pass 3

3 All Pass

What do you lead?

ANDY
I lead a small trump without conviction and for no good reason.
BARRY
A following up with 2 when I drop partner's K? I think dummy will have 2S not 3S but may have a quick ruff.
DAN
J. I'm assuming 5-Card Majors; if 1 were natural I'd lead partner's suit. I hate this problem very much; I want to lead all of the suits. I want to lead a trump but I don't think I can afford the loss of the tempo. This way I'll get to lead red suits twice through dummy.
JOEL
2. interesting if this should be a lebensohl situation for the 3 bidder. If not, 2nt (scrambling) seems like a better call than 3, since it'll allow you to play 3d when partner has 1-4-5-3, 2-3-5-3, or 2-4-5-2 (I reopen very aggressively, which is fine if playing a scrambling 2nt). [I play 2NT as lebensohl here, in which case, this hand should bid 3. In any case, this partner played 2NT as natural/impossible, so it wasn't an issue. --Jeff]
MIKE
You must be playing strong NTs, otherwise you'd double. Looks like a good time to lead trumps. I'll start with a low one... if partner is stiff, maybe the K will be an entry.
BOB, CURT, ED, ROLF, WALTER, WEB, JEFF AT THE TABLE
small spade.
CONSENSUS
small trump
WINNING ACTION
small spade. Dummy has a trick source in diamonds (!), and Qx. A trump lead blows up the entry to the diamonds, but one has to be very careful later in the defense to avoid various endplays. A club out can be won by partner, who can then shift to a trump, but that's not a guarantee, whereas a trump lead is.
MPs, favorable
A3 KJ853 A K9875
1-2; ?

ANDY
4. There are a lot of minimum hands for partner where game is good, especially when I don't tell the opponents how to defend first.
BOB
Four hearts - the Thomson Game Try.
CURT
Due to the poor quality of my second suit, I'll try for game but not bid it directly. Exact try depends on methods.
DAN
4. Yawn.
ED
Long suit game try and abide by partner's decision.
JOEL
4, I don't trust partner to bid on with the appropriate hands. Our hand has too much playing potential.
MIKE
2 2-way game try. If partner announces club values, I'm bidding slam. Otherwise, I'll settle. [Slam??? --Jeff]
ROLF
4 - game is likely opposite too many hands where partner will sign off. The bidding gives no information away, so the contract might make although it's down against best defense. [Bingo. --Jeff]
WALTER
Has partner denied 4 trumps? If so pass. If not 2 Nagy or 3. If I pass I can bid 3 over 2 or double 3 and hope partner can leave it in.
WEB
4.
JEFF AT THE TABLE
club help suit try
VOTES

Slam try 1

Game 6

Game try 4

WINNING ACTION
bid game. Partner has KQJ 10xx 10xxxx 10 and rejected (reasonably so) my game try in clubs. Game is hardly cold, but RHO has QJx and covered the 10 and LHO then shifted to A and another. This seemed to be pretty normal defense; most were making 10 tricks.
JEFF UPON REFLECTION
It's pretty close. It'd not be a problem at IMPs, but at matchpoints plus scores are good. I think trying for slam is a little bit on the optimistic side, to say the least.
MPs, unfavorable

1062
K54
A9743
J7

Q4
A9762
Q10
9643

Declarer Dummy

1 2

3 (help suit) 4

Partner leads the J. Small from dummy.
What's your plan?

ANDY
I'll duck, since I don't know what to return if I win.
BOB
Heart Ace, club six. It could be wrong, but I don't regard the decision as close.
CURT
A, club.
DAN
Partner went passive, and I shall too. I don't see any reason to rise at trick one, and I expect partner to be in before me to lead more hearts.
ED
A 9. Should be right or at least breakeven unless declarer has only three diamonds.
JOEL
Hop Ace, and lead the 6 back (attitude), and if partner cashes the Q & A, follow with the 9 next. If I had as much as the A9862 of hearts instead, I'd be sure partner didn't have JT73, since the percentage lead from that is low, and I'd go for the heart gamble by playing low instead. However JT83 is going to take a strong willed partner (especially if playing 3rd/5th) to find a low one, also.
MIKE
I faced this problem (I think) and played the A... allowing declarer to make an otherwise impossible game. (his diamond help suit was anemic).
ROLF
It is tempting to let the jack ride, but I prefer to take the ace and switch to a club. If LHO is 1-4 in the red suits ducking might be disasterous.
WALTER
Win the Ace and return a club.
WEB
Win A and switch to a club. Maybe your willingness to let him keep a board entry will cause him to misguess the diamonds.
JEFF AT THE TABLE
A, club.
CONSENSUS
A, club.
WINNING ACTION
duck. Declarer has AK98x Qx xxx AKQ.
JEFF UPON REFLECTION
I think it's not real close. Ducking has several ways to lose, not the least of which is that they grab five spades, five diamonds and a heart before we cash our three tricks. Alternatively, we may simply blow to a stiff Q. But it felt really silly to let a terrible contract come home. Partner was not amused. ...There's still some challenge to the defense if I duck, but I suspect we'd get it right. I don't think I'd toss my Q under the ace (it might be really silly if declarer's diamonds were J52 or Jxxxx), but partner should be up to the Crocodile Coup later in the hand once he sees declarer play diamonds strangely. I suspect I'd think about jettisoning the Q, so he'd have UI, but he should know from declarer's play who has the Q anyway and not be constrained.

Jeff Goldsmith, jeff@tintin.jpl.nasa.gov, Aug. 12, 1998

You	LHO	CHO	RHO
1	Dbl	Pass	1
1NT	Pass	Pass	2
2NT	Pass	3NT	All Pass

	6543 A842 --- KQJ93

	KQJ1098 Q109 Q96 4

	xx AKxx AKxxx Qx
		A87xx Jxxx Qxx x

	985 Q854 Q63 J97

	K4 A3 874 AKQ654

6NT	4
3	4
4	2
5NT	1