Some problems from Bridge Week 97/Answers

Today's Panelists: Steve Altus, Bobby Bodenheimer, Curt Hastings, Ed Davis, David Milton, Rolf Kühn, Web Ewell

Upon reflection, this was one of the hardest problem sets in a long time.

  1. IMPs, short matches, all white

     S:AQ109 H:10xx D:Qx C:KJ9x

    RHO You LHO CHO
    1S: Pass1NT 2H:
    Pass ?

    1NT was forcing.

    STEVE
    2S:. I need to suggest game, but don't want to punish partner for showing me what to lead against what he thought would be a spade contract.
    BOBBY
    Pass
    CURT
    3NT. I don't want to punish partner, but this is IMPs so he won't be terrible. It looks like hearts will not handle well on this hand. I'd probably bid only 2NT at matchpoints.
    ED
    2S:. I am going to play game in hearts unless partner bids 3D:.
    DAVID
    I am bidding 2S:. If partner just bids 3H: I will probably pass. If partner makes any other noise I will bid 3NT. [Partner will pass as LHO is bidding 3C:. --J]
    ROLF
    What is the right game: 3NT or 4H:? Because of the excellent S:-stopper and the soft side values I will bid 3NT. Hamman says that is right as well.
    WEB
    2NT looks about right, because if partners hearts are solid, 3NT might make, and if they aren't, 4H: might not.
    JEFF AT THE TABLE
    2NT
    CONSENSUS
    none
    JEFF UPON REFLECTION
    Hard to say. I'd like to support partner and then bid NT. 2S: followed by 3NT sounds like doubt about spades, which is not what I have. 2NT let LHO tell me his long suit was clubs, so then 3NT become obvious.
    WINNING ACTION
    2NT or 3NT. Partner has  S:xxx H:AKJxxx D:Jxx C:x. If you bid below 3C:, LHO will bid his 7-bagger. 4H: isn't much of a contract, particularly if RHO finds a spade shift after cashing a high diamond. Either game (3NT/4H:) requires bringing in hearts (which works), and 3NT is nearly cold on a non-diamond lead, so getting to 3NT is best.

  2. IMPs, short matches, all white

     S:K H:Jxx D:10xxxxx C:AQx

    You LHO CHO RHO
    PassPass1S: Dbl
    2D:? 3H: 4C: 4H:
    ?

    2D: was natural, nonforcing
    Do you choose it? What now?

    STEVE
    5C:. 4S: is really tempting. Could partner be only 5-5? If so, he'll need either S:AQJT or C:KJT, since there's potential blockage in the blacks (take tap, spade to king, now must come to hand in clubs, blocking that suit unless clubs are very good). 5-2 spades will beat it anyway. But is pd. really only 5-5? If he could have six clubs and five spades then 5C: is better, since it doesn't lose on 5-2 spades. If he's 6-5 the other way, they'll both make unless clubs go to Hawaii (5-0), in which case club ruffs will probably beat 4S: as well. So I guess you're supposed to bid 5C:.
    BOBBY
    2D: seems straightforward. I'm going to pass now and try to beat 4H:. [Bobby needs to play with someone who occasionally has his bid. --Jeff]
    CURT
    I would not have bid 2D:. I why would I expect to buy it in diamonds looking at my hearts. Anyway, now that partner will never be able to read my honor dispersion, I have to make a final decision. I'll shoot 6C:, since I expect partner to be able to play the red suits for 1 loser after he bid to the 4 level with no assurance of a fit. My guess is he is armed with not worse than  S:AQTxx H:x D:AK C:KJxxx or  S:AQxxxx H:x D:A C:KJxxx.
    ED
    Yes to 2D:. 5C:.
    DAVID
    No to 2D:. It places the emphasis on diamonds where 0% of my points live. I would have bid 1NT showing 8-10 HCP the first time and later if it seems correct, introduce the diamond suit. I don't want partner leading a diamond. In my book, 2D: would show this hand  S:K H:Jxx D:AQxxxx C:Txx

    5C: now. I have 3 top honors in partners suits when he is bidding on the expectation of my having most of my values in diamonds. Partner ought to have something like  S:AQxxxx H:x D:x C:KJTxx with perhaps a secondary diamond card.

    ROLF
    Partner seems to be 6-5 at least and has a void in H:. I have 3 cover cards for him. Slam has even play opposite  S:AQxxxx H:--- D:Kx C:KJxxx. I will bid 6C: and double 6H:.
    WEB
    5C:. 2D: looks like a good initial choice, (Rdbl is my second choice, but I don't want to commit to defending without mentioning my 6-bagger). If partner has anything resembling a 4C: call, 5C: should have play.
    JEFF AT THE TABLE
    2D: and 5C:.
    CONSENSUS
    none on 2D:, but no agreement about alternatives. My second choice is 1NT. I think redouble is bad, since you are not going to be able to double anything and will be truly stuck after 2H:-p-p-? 3D: now shows a better hand and a better suit.

    Now, 5C:.

    JEFF UPON REFLECTION
    2D:. 4S: or 5C:, tough decision.
    WINNING ACTION
    Double. They are too high and partner doesn't have the semblance of a 4C: bid. This is not fair, however, and if partner did, we ought to be closer to 6C: than 4C:.

    What I thought was the real problem is the decision between 4S: and 5C:. Much of the time when 5C: makes, so will 4S:. If partner is 6-5, 4S: could possibly stand bad breaks in both black suits while 5C: goes down; let's say partner has  S:AQxxxx H:x D:x C:KJxxx. Isn't 4S: the better contract? Bidding clubs seems obvious, but is it really right? If partner's clubs are better (KJ109x) 5C: is good enough, since you can ruff a red suit, cash S:K, cross back to a trump, ruff a spade high, then cross back to hand in trumps, but if he's missing any of those spots, a 4-1 break could be trouble. If partner is, however, 5-5, then 4S: could be silly, but it might well still be as good or better than 5C:; if he has  S:AQJ10x H:x D:xx C:KJxxx, only 4S: will make. If he has  S:AQ10xx H:x D:Ax C:KJxxx, 4S: is OK.

  3. IMPs, long match, all white

     S:Kxxx H:10 D:AKJx C:K109x

    You LHO CHO RHO
    1D: 4H: PassPass
    ?

    Negative doubles were on through 3S:.

    STEVE
    Pass, but I'm a wuss. I'd double at favorable, maybe at even-red also.
    BOBBY
    Pass
    CURT
    Would higher doubles have been cards or penalty? If the latter, pass is clear. I'll still pass with the former, albeit somewhat uneasily, since I'm 4441.
    ED
    Dbl, for takeout. Pass balanced 18 counts.
    DAVID
    I pass and don't really have much to say about it. Later, I'll blame partner if we are getting 150 instead of 500
    ROLF
    Pass - what else?
    WEB
    Dbl. WTP?
    JEFF AT THE TABLE
    Slow pass.
    CONSENSUS
    Pass
    JEFF UPON REFLECTION
    I didn't know then, and I don't know now. Preempts work.
    WINNING ACTION
    Double. Partner has  S:AQxxx H:xxx D:xx C:Qxx. Would you make a negative double with that if available?

  4. IMPs, long match, both vul

     S:Axx H:J9xxx D:AK9xx C:---

    You Partner
    1H: 2H:
    ?

    What's your plan?

    STEVE
    Short-suit game try in clubs. Any honors are good, except in clubs. I predict down one. It's a little dangerous to big a shaky game red at IMPs with bad trumps, since you might actually get doubled. [Good point. --Jeff]
    BOBBY
    Game try in hearts.
    CURT
    I choose the practical bid, 4H:. This may be a difficult hand for them to defend, if I don't tell them what I'm looking at.
    ED
    Game tries in spades then diamonds. [He gets to 3H:. --Jeff]
    DAVID
    I am going to just bid 4H: directly. [He considers slam. --Jeff]
    ROLF
    Get to 4H: over 3D:.
    WEB
    4H:. I think I'm more likely to get a spade lead if I make a short suit game try. I don't think my ability to better judge whether game is 35% on a slower auction outweighs extra information to the defense. [Bet you don't get a spade lead if you make a short suit try in spades. --Jeff]
    JEFF AT THE TABLE
    2S: help suit, followed by signoff when partner made a counter-try in clubs.
    CONSENSUS
    none, split between game tries and game
    JEFF UPON REFLECTION
    psych a short suit game try in spades, then bid game, hopefully after partner hasn't rejected.
    WINNING ACTION
    stop or deter a spade lead. Partner has  S:xxx H:K10xx D:xx C:Kxxx. Hearts are 2-2 with the queen off, but diamonds are 3-3. On a non spade lead, 4H: is pretty good.

  5. Matchpoints, both vulnerable

     S:xx H:--- D:AK10xxxx C:AKJx

    CHO RHO You LHO
    1S: Pass2D: 2H:
    Dbl Pass3C: Pass
    3NT Pass4D: Pass
    5D: Pass5H: Dbl
    5S: Pass?

    Do you agree with your previous bidding?

    STEVE
    6D:. I've dragged him kicking and screaming.
    BOBBY
    I think 6C: here is the best chance of giving partner enough information to work out what he needs to bid 7.
    ED
    Yes. 6D: now. Partner's bidding is consistent with  S:AQJxx H:KQxx D:xx C:xx. I don't want him to bid 7D: if he has the C:Qx instead of xx.
    DAVID
    6C:
    ROLF
    7D: seems to be reasonable bet. Partner has something extra and this is probably in S:. A S:-finesse, if needed, is probably on and I can ruff at least one club in dummy.
    WEB
    6D:. I don't want to cuebid 6C:, because partner needs too much for 7D: to be on. (D:Q,C:Q,S:A,S:K) I'll double 6H: and take my plus if necessary.
    JEFF AT THE TABLE
    6C:
    CONSENSUS
    none
    JEFF UPON REFLECTION
    6D:. If it makes seven, we still have a good score. Why risk a zero?

    I think the big question to be answered is, "what's 5NT?" I think it's the grand slam force of a sort, but you can't be off two of the top three diamonds, can you? ( S:Kx H:--- D:AJ10xxxx C:AKQJ?) If not, then 6C: would show nothing in diamonds, and 6D: an honor. That'd be great. Would partner read it? Heck, no.

    WINNING ACTION
    6D:. Partner has  S:AKJ10x H:Jxxx D:xx C:Q10. He bid 7D: over 6C:. I can sympathize a little with that action, but he has already psyched twice in the auction, so he probably shouldn't be bidding a grand now.
    Do you agree with your previous bidding?
    STEVE
    Previous bidding was OK.
    BOBBY
    Yes
    ED
    Yes
    DAVID
    I would probably bid the same way.
    JEFF
    I can't believe that everyone would make the same first four bids I did, then have their paths diverge.

  6. IMPs, long matches, unfavorable, you hold

     S:Axxxx H:xxx D:x C:QJxx

    LHO RHO
    1D: 2H:(strong)
    3H: 4D:
    4NT 5H:
    6H: Pass

    What's your lead?

    ED
    C:x. A small spade is far inferior. It needs for them each to have 2+ spades without the queen and with the jack. It also allows them to make when these conditions are not present and they have a diamond loser/misguess or have to set up a diamond or a spade for a club discard, e.g.  S:x H:QJxx D:AJxxx C:Ax opp  S:KQx H:AKQxxx D:Kxx C:xx. And we all know that many people will bid blackwood with a small doubleton in a side suit so there is not a guarantee of the S:K on your left. I would lead the C:x rather than the C:Q to guard against  S:Kx H:Qxxx D:QJ9x C:AKT opp  S:Q H:AKJTxx D:Axxx C:xx. [S:A works better in each of these examples. --Jeff]
    DAVID
    There are two schools of thought here. The first is that you shouldn't lead an Ace against a small slam without a good reason. The second is that a good reason to lead an ace against a small slam is when you think you might have a trick elsewhere and don't want to lose the Ace. I don't have a possible trick elsewhere, but leading the Ace might induce declarer to play me for one (protecting partners trick. LHO should have a club control for the Blackwood bid and unless they can't count, partner won't have the C:A. Therefore I do not see a good reason for leading the C:Q which could give up a trick. Dummy always has KTxx. Just last week I led the Q from QJx against 3NT and saw that holding in dummy. I was sick until partner showed up with A9xx.

    I lead my conventional small club and feel bad if I was supposed to cash spades or protect partners trick.

    ROLF
    S:A - the best chance seems to be to cash S:AK or S:A and a trump trick. If I don't lead it - I might not get it...
    WEB
    S:A. There could be two quick spade losers, with one going away on diamonds.
    JEFF AT THE TABLE
    partner's problem. I'd've led a spade, either A or small. S:A is obvious at matchpoints.
    CONSENSUS
    none
    JEFF UPON REFLECTION
    some spade. I don't see the argument for a club's being good. They have had an auction that promises a double fit, so they'll have a lot of tricks when they get in. Given that I have 7 HCP, I don't think partner has many, probably not more than a queen. If he has a queen, it's most likely in spades. If it's in a red suit, I definitely want to cash the S:A. If it's in spades, I probably want to underlead the S:A. If partner has the S:K, I want to lead a spade. (There's some danger that partner will duck with K10x, but he might not. He might be able to count 13 tricks for declarer if declarer has the S:A.) The S:A is probably a little better than a small one, but it's close.
    WINNING ACTION
    Spade. Partner's only card is the S:K, and they cash. Dummy'll make it so obvious (S:Qx, both red queens, and C:AK) that if you underlead, he won't duck, since if declarer has the S:A, he'll claim if you don't ruff.
Jeff Goldsmith, jeff@tintin.jpl.nasa.gov, July 23, 1997