Problems from Various Places: Answers

Which places, you might ask? 1-3 are from Phoenix and were problem that became the basis of appeals. 4 was an appeal from Montreal, supplied by David Weiss. 5-6 were from the Reno regional, the latter from the money individual.

Today's Panelists: Robb Gordon, Barry Rigal, David Caprera, Mike Shuster, John Jones, Jeff Goldsmith, Dan Hugh-Jones, Mark Bartusek, Bobby Bodenheimer, JoAnna Stansby, Michael Schreiber, Dan Molochko, Ed Davis

Favorable, MP, you hold
AKQ1072 103 762 J3

RHO You LHO CHO

1 2 3 3

Pass Pass 4 Pass

Pass ?
ROBB
I have to admit I would not be in this position. [Neither would I, but so it goes. --Jeff] Why on earth would I make a favorable pre-empt with This hand? Now I get to bid 4 spades and completely demoralize partner.
BARRY
Pass; I absolutely have no say here; my 2 bid (not my choice by the way) defined my hand. If you play double as action—extras I'd like you to bid/pass depending on the nature of the 3 call that would be fine. [Looby doubles by a preemptor??? --Jeff] I don't. Should I? I think not. This is a very dangerous style without lots of agreement and we don't have it.
DAVIDC
I lead K. Never cared much for A from AK(Q). Playing honor leads showing count may have merit but I do not have experience with using them.
MIKE
Pass, assuming 2 is consistant with the partnership methods (i.e. you were playing in the individual, because I couldn't imagine your bidding that in any other context). I do believe that partner's 3 bid is encouraging for you to bid again with an appropriate holding, but this ain't it. Holding KQJxx x xx J10xxx, maybe.
JJ
4 seems right, although much depends on my preemptive style. My personal style is frequently to have a whole lot less than this (this hand is a little above my maximum playing strength). [A little? Surely you mean "by far!" --Jeff]
DANHJ
Pass. I'm not happy about it as I would have bid 3 the first time, but having done so, I must live with it. Partner did not save and he knows more about my hand than I do about his.
MARK
PASS, it is absolutely silly to bid again on this auction. The opponents might be going down in 4, in the wrong denomination, or cold for a slam. You are giving them a "fielder's choice" by bidding again. Personally I would always bid 3 with this hand favorable at MPs. Words fail me in describing how bad the initial 2 bid was at these conditions of contest.
BOBBY
I may be a member of the old school, but I pass. The decision on this hand is how many spades to bid at the first opportunity. Having decided on 2, I live with my decision.
JOANNA
Pass seems easy. Partner didn't bid 4 either because she wants to defend 4 (I have an ace and 2 trump to contribute) or because 4 is in danger of -800 (and I have no stiff so every last one of the opp's aces and kings are cashing).
MICHAEL
Pass. What else do I have to say about this hand?
DANM
Pass. This is a discipline issue with me. I hate the 2 bid, but I must have had a good reason when I bid it, so I'm not going to cross up partner (or the auction) now. This hand is either a 1 or a 3 overcall. 2 is what I bid if you make the A the 3.
ED
Make the A a x and 2 would be the normal bid. As it is, I am much too strong for 2. Partner cannot judge the offensive or defensive potential if I bid 2 on this hand as well as bidding it on the same hand without the A. So much for the free-lance 2 bid. I don't even have to know if partner's 3 bid was suggesting a sacrifice since it is clear to defend with a possible two defensive tricks when I have not promised any defensive tricks.
JEFF
I'd bid 4 in an instant. Let's see...competitive rule #1: "If the bad guys bid 4, and it's reasonable for us to bid 4, do it." I don't think I ought to be dissuaded by the vulnerability, white vs. red. Or the conditions: matchpoints. (There's much more upside at MPs than IMPs. At IMPs, if you go down 2, it's 3-4 IMPs. At MPs, it's a half board.) I also play that partner's 3 bid here (which has no chance to buy the contract, given the opponents are in a force) authorizes me to bid 4 if I think it's right. My hand is all spades...how can it not be right? Let's see...for 4 to be right, three things have to be true:
1. they make 4
2. 4 takes at least seven tricks
3. the field is reaching game
The latter two are slam-dunks, 100%. Only the first one is in doubt; if partner has only three spades and they are 2-2, we may be able to beat 4. That's 40% at best, because partner may have four spades and they may make despite 2-2 spades. Sacrificing is clearly the right action.
VOTES

Action Votes

4 3

Pass 10

WINNING ACTION
4. Partner had 865 Q8 104 KQ9542. 4 was making six; 4 was down 2. (They shift to trumps, which are 3-1, after cashing two hearts.
PROVENANCE
This hand was an appeal problem from Phoenix. Partner's pass over 4 was very slow.
JEFF UPON REFLECTION
Since I wasn't at the table, my thoughts about the problem are upon reflection.
What becomes interesting, though only mildly, is the appeal. Did partner's pause over 4 demonstrably suggest bidding 4? I think so. He wasn't thinking of doubling or he'd've not bid 3 the last time. You might bid 4 in front of him, crossing him up. Therefore, he must be thinking of bidding 4, although I don't see why on his actual hand. Is passing 4 a logical alternative? Given that much of the panel here actually did pass, obviously it must be. Therefore, 4 cannot be allowed.
None vul, BAM, you hold
QJ8 6 J9 QJ109864

RHO You LHO CHO

2* Pass 2 Pass

Pass 3? 3 Dbl

Pass ?

* Flannery
a) would you have bid 3?

ROBB, DAVIDC, JOANNA, MICHAEL
yes.
BARRY
No I would not bid 3 — my view is that it may be our best spot but if so partner will remove.
MIKE
No. Its very dangerous to balance against Flannery and here I have only 7 losers, but no hand at all. If partner bids 3NT, he is highly unlikely to make it. If we're making 3 we may well have enough to defeat 2H... unless we have a big club fit, in which case they can make 9 or 10 tricks anyway.
JJ
3 — clear — I have a good suit and not enough to bid 3 directly, seems right for a balance.
DANHJ
Yes, I think so. I could be convinced it was wrong though. At the table, I might well have been swayed either way by knowledge of who my opponents were.
MARK
Yes, 3 seems clear with a 7-bagger. You can't just give away a part-score at BAM.
BOBBY
3 is fine.
DANM
Yes, of course. Partner has some high cards, and you have a trump suit. Going minus at the two-level loses the board.
ED
Yes. I have six more clubs than hearts.
JEFF
Pass. Balancing against Flannery is mega-dangerous. They probably stopped short of game because they have a misfit or only a mild fit and both partners are near max. (Partner didn't act with a known good hand.) One good way to win the board is to defend 2 -110 when teammates are +120 on a normal auction like 1-1NT; 2-2NT; pass. If you think your hand will bid 3 over 1 at the other table, bidding 3 now is getting the worst of it; they know whether to sell or not and they have a penalty double available where your teammates did not. Still, there are ways to win. They may have 8 tricks in hearts and you push them to 3 or they may sell to 3 +110 instead of -110 or +50. Unless partner hangs you.
VOTES

Action Votes

3 9

Pass 3

b) what now?

ROBB
Pass. Partner was hoping I would re-open With a double. He has seen me balance before.
BARRY
I'll pass at BAM. It is only a bottom/0. [How much worse can it be? --Jeff]
DAVIDC
Hope we beat it. This was the real risk I took in bidding 3 and now I have to live with my decision. I shouldn't be making 4 and who knows, partner may be killing them. Much harder at IMPs than at BAM.
MIKE
Pass and pray. My hand will be a disappointment, but 4 seems like giving up on the board. At IMPs I would probably run.
JJ
Pass! There is a special place in Hades for those who pull partner's penalty doubles when their partner knows more about the hand than they do. In this case pard knows more about the hand than any of the other 3 players. [Baloney. LHO knows more about the hand than anyone else. The Flannery opener's partner is usually very well-placed in competitive auctions. Not to mention, do you really think partner has a good idea of your hand? --Jeff] Yes, I would like to have an ace or king, but I would pull this double only with a real twist, and this hand isn't close. All I did was balance with both sides NV, and pard (who wants me to balance agressively) won't play me for much defense. Also, the QJ8 and the J9 are better cards on defense. If pard has made a close double because we're playing BAM and they make it, too bad, we've been there before, it's only one board, and our partnership confidence won't be damaged near as much as it would be if I pulled a juicy penalty double. Thus, this is an opening lead problem. I lead my trump (the Q is 2nd choice). If the K appears in dummy, I will probably split my honors on the first round (what's my parnership agreement about spliting?) and look for a suit preference signal (maybe in trumps) as to how to get back to pard for a 3rd trump play if necessary.
DANHJ
Pass. If 3 was a reasonable action, then pard should be aware that I can hold this hand. Sure, they will make it once in a while, but if I was not prepared to sit for pard's double then I should have passed the hand out. Pard will be (and rightly) a lot more pissed off when I pull and they double me off and beat me in 4 than he will when 3 makes.
MARK
4, I have practically no defense. Partner is not expecting this type of hand. [That's true! --Jeff]
JOANNA, MICHEAL
Pass
BOBBY
I look at my hand, decide they are too likely to make 3 and bid 4. Partner may be trap passing, but will expect more from my hand.
DANM
Pass, of course. Partner has played BAM before, and she's seen people balance before. +100 stands a good chance of winning the board. If I were taking out here, I should have bid a preemptive 4 directly over 2.
ED
My guess is to pull to 4. I have some extra playing strength and very little defense. I know this but partner doesn't. Although partner could have this beat in his own hand, I think the percentages favor partner counting on me to contribute more to the defense.
JEFF
4, but I don't think it matters. They are making 3 and I'm going for a number in 4. I think the natural choice is to pull; they may fail to double and forget to bid their game because partner sawed them off at the 3-level.
VOTES

Action Votes

Pass 9

4 4

WINNING ACTION
None. Partner held Axx Axx Kxxxx xx. I have no idea why she doubled. 3 makes and 4 is down two.
PROVENANCE
This was another appeal from Phoenix. Partner doubled very slowly.
JEFF UPON REFLECTION
I included this hand because I thought the competitive tactics vs. Flannery were particularly interesting. I'm strongly against the 3 balance, even though it seems completely obvious. The problem is that your teammates are going to be in a worse position (unless they play Flannery, in which case I'd bid 3) than your opponents. If the bad guys bid 3 directly over 1 at the other table, they are not playing it there. Unless they are doubled, in which case, you want out of this auction pronto. LHO knows whether or not to compete over 3 (or double for penalties), so your best hope is that the opponents can make 140 and you get out while the gettin' out's good. Winning the board by going -110 and +120 can happen if your hand doesn't bid 3. Overall, I don't see how 3 can put you in a better position or even equal position to the other table, so why take any risk?
Passing the double I guess has to be right, but you know they are making it. 4x is probably booked for -300 anyway, so you can no longer win the board. So it goes.
The appeal issue is easy. This hand pulled. That can't be allowed after the slow double.
Unfav, IMPs, you hold
Q10432 QJ73 — A752

You LHO CHO RHO

Pass Pass 2NT Pass

3 Dbl 3 Pass

3 Pass 4 Pass

?

ROBB
5. 4 was not suggestion of a final contract. Partner likes his hand. I like his hand too.
BARRY
I'd have thought we play Smolen here so I'd have bid 3 and avoided my problems. What did 3 show? [I assume 5 + 4. --Jeff] Unless I know I can't answer but I'll assume 5 and maybe 4? Pass. Partner has AJ AKx AKJxx xxx and did not want to bid 3NT. He might be right. Can't be a cue bid—he can't have four hearts and he does not know I do.
DAVIDC
To begin with, I would have wanted to be playing Smolen if not some form of puppet. And how big is 2N? But assuming "standard", I don't think my monkey is 2=4=5=2 and I don't think he is looking for a Moysian. No, I think my monkey should have a good three card fit and control. Could we have a grand? Possibly. I am bidding 5 on route to at least 6. If we aren't on the same wavelength, I may find out quickly. (Should be unanimous - not!)
MIKE
4. Another hand I wasn't there for. I would have bid a quiet 3NT over 3. I have no idea how he intends this 4 call, but I don't see much reason to play this in a 4-3 fit... and if this is some exotic cuebid or if he thinks 3 was Smolen then passing would be bad. Of course, if he thinks 3 was Smolen, I have a host of other problems to deal with, don't I?
JJ
This round is easy. 4 is a cue in support of , and pard might have something like AKJ AKx Qxxxx KJ. 5 is clear, the next round may be harder.
DANHJ
Pass. What else? 4 should be an okay spot. I assume pard will be 2=3=5=3 with good diamonds and decent hearts, ace or king third at worst.
MARK
5... 4 should be a cuebid accepting spades as trumps. Partner's first obligation is to bid 3NT without spade support unless the auction indicates that club stoppers are a problem. Partner's 3 bid implied concern about stopping clubs; thus, he would have bid a natural 4 over 3 without spade support or a club stopper (or possibly 3NT expecting you to pull without a club stopper). The only way to get to a Moysian 4 contract is to bid it over partner's 3NT or 4 bid.
BOBBY
I assume partner is 2353 or 2362. I don't mind playing the 4-3, so I pass. The 5-2 may usually be preferable, but I shouldn't get tapped on this hand, so that's not a problem, and I suppose there's a marginal chance pard has opened 2NT with A ATx AKQxx KJxx. [He'd bid 3NT with that. --Jeff]
JOANNA
4: happy that LHO's double has warned me that RHO will overruff when I attempt to ruff a club with dummy's low trump.
MICHEAL
The question is, "is this a cue bid in support of spades or an attempt to play the 3-4 fit?" I think this is to play. I don't think you can take a cue bid in partner's suit. I think I'll bid 4 anyway as a safety play to avoid playing in a cue bid.
DANM
Pass. 4 is surely natural, but I'm not certain it's four cards. AJ AKx KQJxxx Qx (not my cup of tea for 2NT, but many would) or something similar is what I'm afraid of. Difficult, because slam isn't too far away even with that hand. I'm not very far from bidding 5 (and leaving the rest up to partner) but I've made a resolution to be less aggressive at the slam level in competitive auctions, so at least this week, I'm passing.
ED
Ideally, this wouild be a 2=3=6=2 with no stopper and good hearts. In practice, I suspect this auction involved some hesitations with the possibility of one hand thinking along the lines of Smolen transfers being on (they should be on if you play them). I'd duke it out here in 4.
JEFF
Pass. When I learned Stayman, I'd never heard of Smolen. This auction shows five spades and four hearts, forcing. So partner chose the heart game. Perhaps he has a singleton spade honor and three good hearts. Or weakness in clubs and good hearts and is afraid of notrump. He probably has something like K AKx AKQxxx Jxx. Yes, I play with twisted partners. Considering a stiff spade is something I need to do.
VOTES

Action Votes

Pass 6

5 4

4 3

WINNING ACTION
Pass. Partner has AKx A108 AKJ8x J9. See below for the explanation of partner's strange 4 call.
PROVENANCE
This is yet another appeal from Phoenix. At the table, partner alerted 3 as Smolen. Oops.
JEFF UPON REFLECTION
It's 50-50 whether folks think 4 is to play or is a cue in support of spades. How can it be a cue bid? If partner doesn't have a club or diamond control, he's not cueing hearts; he's bidding 4. And to make a cuebid you might pass is crazy dangerous. No, 4 has to be to play.
If the vote had been very strong that 4 was to play (as I thought it would be, but was mistaken) then passing 4 is allowed despite the unauthorized information from the alert and explanation. But an expert panel isn't sure if 4 is a cue bid or not. Since the offenders didn't know what 3 meant, I won't let them know what 4 is here, so the problem hand has to bid. Any bid will get them to 6 of a major, down 2.
None vul, MPs, you hold
872 A106 QJ108 J92

You LHO CHO RHO

Pass Pass 1NT Dbl*

Rdbl 2* Pass 2

Pass 3 Pass Pass

?

1NT was 14-17, double was an unspecified 1-suiter, redouble was strength-showing, and 2 asked which suit the doubler had.

ROBB
Pass. My redouble was marginal, and pass over 3 cannot be forcing. WTP?
BARRY, MIKE, DAVIDC, JOANNA
Double and lead 6
JJ
Pass, but its close to a double.
DANHJ
Double. Pard had a chance to bid his suit over 2 if he was operating with a 6-bagger. [7. --Jeff] I am curious as to what pass by LHO would have shown in place of his 2.
MARK
6 of hearts....I assume this is a lead problem since the final contract assuredly will be 3 doubled. [No, it most assuredly won't be. --Jeff] We have to cut down dummy's ruffing values.
BOBBY
Double. My back-of-envelope calculation of expected values says this is the right thing to do. -140 rates to be a bad score anyway, so allowing them to make changes a probable 3 to a 0. Setting it one loses only to those players who can make 2NT — but if we can make 2NT we can probably set it more than one.
MICHEAL
I smell a rat. I pass. This hand doesn't make any sense. If I just don't create a catastrophe for my side, I'll do OK. I think partner has full values, but something's going on.
DANM
Pass. Let's see: I have a trick and a half; should I play partner for 3+ tricks? I don't think so...
ED
Pass. I showed high-card strength and my LHO invited game in spite of it. I smell a rat... the opponents either don't know what they are doing or they are deaf or CHO is muddying up the waters... in honor of our website, I'm betting it is CHO.
JEFF
Pass. It's not close. My redouble forced us at the two-level, but at the three-level, we are on our own. I have fairly little defense and no place to go, and partner doesn't think 3 is going down, so what can I do?
VOTES

Action Votes

Pass 6

Double 7

WINNING ACTION
Pass. See below.
PROVENANCE
Partner psyched 1NT with J103 4 93 AKQ8432. If you double here, he'll run to 4, of course, but passing is better. This was an appeal in Montreal. Hampson passed 3 and was upheld in committee. I think the commitee got it right.
JEFF UPON REFLECTION
No one has convinced me that double makes any sense.
Both vul, IMPs, you hold
KJ Axx Kx K109xxx
Partner opens 1NT (15-17). What's your plan? Assume you have 2 as a transfer to clubs available.

ROBB
Transfer to clubs and bid 4NT? I wish I could play from my side without distorting my shape. [Particularly if 2 gets doubled! --Jeff]
BARRY
2 and 6 over the accept, 4NT over the reject. If partner has denied Axx by the reject, I could be persuaded not to try for slam. If I had keycard available over 3, I might do that instead.
DAVIDC
I transfer. If partner shows a good hand for Clubs (my agreement is 2NT=bad, 3=good; "good" typically honor third but could be Ax), I bid keycard 4 (if partner responds 2 without, I am going and hoping it isn't Ax). My second choice was transfer and 4NT quant. My dream hand is Qxx Kxx Kxxx AQx which is why I went for keycard instead of quantitative. If partner shows a bad hand for Clubs, I just bid 3NT (expecting we have two losers).
MIKE
I think 2...3NT is about right. If partner shows he likes clubs, I can't cuebid (aieee...!) since new suits will show a singleton, so it is a problematic hand for those methods, still if he likes clubs, 5 ought to be safe at IMPs, so I will psych a diamond stiff (I almost have it). [You can bid 4 forcing, making him cuebid, though. --Jeff]
JJ
Pard might be as good as AQxx xx Axx AQxx (7NT is cold) or as bad as Qx KQJx AQJxx xx (anything above 4NT is in danger). I must make some sort of slam try. With my normal methods (Walsh relays), I would bid:

Opener Responder

1NT 2 (cancelable transfer to )

2 2 (cancels the transfer)

2NT 3 (slam try in clubs with 0 or 1 top honors)

and cuebid thereafter.
With 4 suit transfer methods, I bid 2. If pard shows a good hand for clubs by bidding 2NT, I will continue with 4NT (quantitative — a balanced hand with clubs). If pard shows a poor hand for clubs by bidding 3, then I will settle for 3NT (clubs and a balanced 15 HCP). Yes, my actual hand is a 14 HCP, but the 6 card suit, the 10/9 of , and the good controls are all plus factors.
(The methods I described are Washinton Standard (by Steve Robinson), page 21.)
DANHJ
Tough to be specific without knowing more about the system. I guess I would transfer to clubs and (assuming pard can show by his choice of 2NT and 3 whether he likes clubs or not) then make a move or moves towards slam. If I had a slammish way to bid clubs myself to protect my pointed suit holdings, I would use it.
MARK
If partner makes the weak response to my 2 transfer then I just bid 3NT. If partner super-accepts clubs then I either bid 4 setting the trump suit or 4 Kickback (if available)
BOBBY
I think 2 transfer to clubs, then 4 as RKC for clubs to find out how many keys plus the Q partner has, eventually trying to end up in a NT slam. The perfect kind of hand partner could have is Axxx Kxx Axx AQx whereas a bad sort of hand would be ATxx KQJ QJx Qxx and this sequence seems to find that out. I don't easily find a hand for partner where our combined hands play better at clubs than NT.
JOANNA
Presumably over 2 partner can accept or reject. If partner accepts, I bid keycard in clubs. If partner rejects we play 3NT.
MICHEAL
If partner rejects, I give it up and bid 3NT. If he likes clubs, I bid Blackwood.
DANM
Transfer and bid 3NT. This should be a mild slam try if partner "declines" the invitation (are we playing that?) If I had the old "Power Relay" sequence available (showing a broken-suit slam try) I'd do that, but seeing as I don't have sharp tools, I'll go quietly. Slam is actually pretty far off, so I'm not too worried. (Are the opponents playing strong club at the other table? If so, I'd worry more.)
ED
Transfer to clubs and make a cooperative keycard bid (partner can relay to show no interest... I could relay to ask again). If partner rejects, I'll bid 4NT to play. If those methods are not available, I'd transfer to and bid keycard (4) trusting partner to show the Q holding any four or five clubs. Third choice would be transfer to and then invite in NT.
JEFF AT THE TABLE
3NT. I was afraid 2 would get doubled and I'd find the only way to get a minus score. That's pretty unlikely, though. I was unduly conservative.
VOTES
If partner accepts after 2:

Approach Votes

3NT 2

try for slam 4

drive to slam 7

If partner rejects after 2:

Approach Votes

3NT 9

try for slam 3

drive to slam 1

WINNING ACTION
anything not too conservative. Partner has a 17-count with AQ tight. 6NT or 6 rolls.
JEFF UPON REFLECTION
I like the consensus action: bid 2, then if partner rejects, bid 3NT. If he shows interest, drive to slam.
No one vul, MPs for $$$

Q53
A105
AQ765
32

AK107
9432
KJ104
10

West North You South

— 1 1 1NT

All Pass

OK, so you don't overcall 1. It's not the worst bid in the world. Maybe you doubled 1NT. Fine. Partner still led the 9.
Declarer, a capable player, covers the 9 with the Q. Plan your defense. Only about $4,000 is riding on it.

ROBB
It seems clear to duck the spade, but less clear how to follow up. I would guess declarer is 4-2-2-5. Partner has some values and did not double or compete, so he shouldn�t have more than 5 clubs and they probably aren�t that great. If declarer guesses to play a second spade from dummy, I will win and shift to a heart, which will hold him to the 6 or 7 tricks he is entitled to, depending on whether he has a heart holding that combines for 2 or 3 tricks. If he misguesses to try to establish his presumed 5 card club suit he will probably be down 2 or 3 if partner finds the hopefully obvious diamond shift.
BARRY
I win the first spade and shift to the 2. If I play clubs something bad will happen. Maybe partner can work out I have to be very short in the suit else I'd play one.
DAVIDC
(MP's takes on a new meaning with cash on the line.) I play the 7, partner ducks the first round of clubs and I discourage hearts on the second club. Partner switches to 9. I can provide you wiring instructions so that you may credit my account. [Dreamer. Partner wins the first round of clubs in a hurry to continue the spades after you "encourage!" --Jeff]
MIKE, MICHAEL
Win and shift to a heart.
JJ
I will assume that pard is good enough to know to lead low in this situation with 3 small, or you would have mentioned pard's defensive ability. I'm not willing to bank on 98 dub, so I need to shift. For $4,000, I shift to the 4 (yes Regis, that's my final answer). I'm trying the 4 (not the 2) because pard may be able to read it if he has QJx not play a 2nd from his side. He may be able to infer that I have four hearts (declarer didn't make a negative double).
DANHJ
I will play to keep declarer out of his hand. Duck the first spade and later lead hearts, hoping pard has something like KJ8 and the one club card necessary to keep declarer from running clubs in his hand.
MARK
I win the K and return the 9. Partner will realize that I have diamond strength with this return but also 4 hearts since there was no negative double by LHO. Partner will be able to figure out the right defense thereafter. This return might also mess up declarer's entries. I admit that I might have been bamboozled by a competent declarer holding Jxxx with partner holding 98 doubleton.
BOBBY
Avoid leading red cards and pitch hearts on clubs. I assume declarer has J8xx of spades for his NT bid and the play. He has nothing in diamonds, so let's say two small. Reasonable hands for him to have are J8xx KQx xx Axxx [Partner would have led a club from KQJ9xx. --Jeff] in which case 1NT is cold. Declarer might have J8xx KJx xx AJxx in which case I can't lead a heart without giving him his contract. I don't see that I'm in danger of a throw-in since I should always have clubs and spades to exit with (and declarer can't lead a spade from his own hand). I win this trick in case partner has 98 doubleton, and exit with a club.
JOANNA
K, then 4. do I collect the check? [Nope. --Jeff]
DANM
I'm winning the A and leading a low heart. I'm booking declarer for something like J8xx Kx xx AQxxx. Partner would have led small from 9xx of spades, so declarer has four of them. If Partner had six clubs they might have been bid or led so they are likely to be 5-5. I don't think I can stop declarer from scoring 2 spade tricks, but I want to get some communication going in the heart suit. Because I'm not leading a club at trick two, Partner will know to lead diamonds. [Winning the A ends the hand. Partner will not duck his club trick "knowing" that declarer has spade entries to hand. --Jeff]
ED
Let's give declarer J?xx H? xx HH?xx since partner may well have bid 2 with a six-card suit. My best chance on defense is to prevent partner or myself from giving declarer any tricks that he couldn't get for himself, i.e., don't get endplayed. To make this clear and to keep declarer from setting up the fifth diamond, I think I should shift to hearts at T2. Specifically, it should be the 9 to keep partner from returning a heart from an original holding of QJx(x) if he gets in with a at T3. It seems like our side will probably have to lead hearts at some point in the defense anyway so we might as well do it now while we can set up the fourth heart. Switching to a heart from my side has the added benefit that partner won't shift to a heart and give up a trick later on. If I were to instead switch to a at T2, partner might be inclined to continue clubs playing me for the 9.
JEFF AT THE TABLE
I won the first spade and shifted. That was the end of the hand. -150.
VOTES
Most said they'd bid 1 in varying degrees of emphasis. No one complained.

Action Votes

Duck 3

Win & Shift to 9

Win & Shift to 1

Win & Continue 0

WINNING ACTION
Declarer had J8xx Jx x AQJ9xx. You need to kill the spade entry now. Three ways work: duck, win and continue a low spade, or play three rounds of spades.
PROVENANCE
This was from the money individual in Reno. I was 3rd and got a zero on this board. A top would win the event.
JEFF UPON REFLECTION
I think the best play is to win and continue a low spade. There's a big reason for it. You need your partner to duck the first club. How can you make that happen? The best way is to take all the spades out of his hand, so that he's in no rush to grab a trick and fire back a spade. Yes, partner is an idiot. This was an individual event. You get some vigorish: if partner has 98 tight, you will set up some spade tricks. Also, declarer is stuck in his hand at trick 2 if he wins. That's not good for him. If he plays the Q, partner's natural play is to duck, which is good. If he takes a diamond hook, you are in very good shape. Declarer has a very serious problem. Perhaps he'll cross to one of dummy's red aces and take a club hook. If that holds and he crosses to the other red ace to repeat the finesse, a reasonable plan at matchpoints, the roof will cave in on him. He's now booked for down two. And I win the event. Too bad I didn't find that defense.

Jeff Goldsmith, jeff@gg.caltech.edu, Jan. 8, 2003

You	LHO	CHO	RHO
Pass	Pass	2NT	Pass
3	Dbl	3	Pass
3	Pass	4	Pass
?

Opener	Responder
1NT	2 (cancelable transfer to )
2	2 (cancels the transfer)
2NT	3 (slam try in clubs with 0 or 1 top honors)

	Q53 A105 AQ765 32
		AK107 9432 KJ104 10

West	North	You	South
—	1	1	1NT
All Pass